Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 5000H/000R-B059
About This Watch
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 recreates one of the most coveted vintage chronographs in the maison's history, the reference 6087 from 1955. The name refers to the distinctive cow-horn shaped chronograph pushers, an elegant design detail that has become a hallmark of mid-century haute horlogerie chronographs. The manually wound caliber 1142, based on the celebrated Lemania 2310 ebauche, is a column-wheel chronograph finished to Geneva Seal standards. The 38.5mm rose gold case deliberately maintains the proportions of the 1950s original, offering a classically sized chronograph that sits elegantly on the wrist without the bulk of modern sports chronographs. The silver dial features a bi-compax layout with running seconds at 9 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, along with a pulsometer scale at the periphery for measuring heart rate. The box sapphire crystal adds a vintage warmth. For chronograph collectors, the Cornes de Vache represents a perfect marriage of historical significance and contemporary manufacture quality.
In-Depth Review
# Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955
The "cow horn" lugs that define this chronograph are far more than aesthetic flourish. Vacheron Constantin's decision to resurrect the Cornes de Vache case design from its 1955 archives represents a calculated commitment to historical authenticity in an era of design pastiche. The 38.5mm rose gold case, paired with the hand-wound Caliber 1142 chronograph movement, channels the minimalist elegance of mid-century watchmaking. At 11.2mm thick and water-resistant to only 30 meters, this is unambiguously a refined dress piece, not a tool watch dressed in vintage clothing. The tachymeter bezel and silver dial offer functional restraint, while the brown alligator strap grounds the rose gold in warm earthiness rather than precious-metals ostentation.
This watch appeals to a collector with sophisticated historical sensibilities and the means to support them. The ideal owner views a chronograph not as an achievement to broadcast but as a mechanical instrument worthy of study—someone who appreciates that 21,600 vph and a 48-hour power reserve represent engineering competence rather than specification maximization. This is a piece for the wrist that commands attention only from those who understand its provenance.
In the $48,000 market, the Cornes de Vache faces formidable competition from the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5070P, which offers greater complexity and arguably deeper horological credentials, and the Rolex Daytona, which delivers comparable heritage at a steeper price premium. Yet Vacheron Constantin's execution here—restrained, historically grounded, technically sound—carves distinct territory for the collector seeking mechanical excellence without contemporary excess.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Manual |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Caliber 1142 |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Frequency | 21,600 vph |
| Jewels | 21 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 38.5mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 11.2mm |
| Case Material | 18k Rose Gold |
| Crystal | Sapphire box crystal |
| Bezel | Fixed, polished |
| Dial Color | Silver |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 45.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 30m / 98ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Brown alligator leather strap |
| Clasp | 18k rose gold pin buckle |
| Weight | 72g |
| Complications |