Rolex Submariner 124060
About This Watch
The Rolex Submariner 124060 is the no-date version of Rolex's legendary dive watch, and many purists consider it the truest expression of the Submariner design. Without the date window and Cyclops magnifier, the dial achieves a perfect symmetry that harks back to the original 1953 Submariner. The absence of the date complication means the caliber 3230 is slightly thinner, giving the watch a marginally slimmer profile at 11.4mm. This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate the clean aesthetic and the Submariner's fundamental purpose as a dive instrument. The watch retains all the professional capabilities of its date-equipped sibling: 300 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel with a Cerachrom ceramic insert, and luminescent Chromalight displays for underwater legibility. The 70-hour power reserve ensures reliability over a long weekend without wearing. For many enthusiasts, the no-date Sub represents the best value proposition in the Rolex sport lineup, offering the full Submariner experience at a lower entry point. Its clean dial and thinner case make it exceptionally comfortable for daily wear, and it transitions effortlessly from the ocean to the office.
In-Depth Review
# Editorial: The Steel Submariner Endures
Since its 1953 debut, the Submariner has defined the dive watch category with uncompromising utility and timeless aesthetics. The 124060, introduced in 2020, strips away the date window to restore the dial's symmetrical purity while maintaining the collection's core identity. Housing Rolex's in-house 3230 caliber—a robust automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve—this steel tool watch delivers the precision and reliability expected from the brand's professional instrument line. The 41mm Oystersteel case, sapphire crystal, and unidirectional Cerachrom bezel represent purposeful engineering rather than superficial refinement. Water resistance to 300 meters ensures legitimate diving capability, though most owners will never venture below swimming depth.
The no-date Submariner appeals to purists and collectors who value design coherence over complication. This watch suits the executive who appreciates understated quality, the enthusiast seeking entry into mechanical horology's upper echelon, and the diver who demands dependable performance without unnecessary complications. Its versatility—equally at home on rubber or metal—makes it a genuine daily wear candidate despite its premium positioning.
In the contemporary luxury dive watch market, the 124060 faces formidable competition. The Tudor Black Bay 58 ($4,625) offers comparable heritage and accessibility at roughly half the price, while the Omega Seamaster 300M ($6,100) provides greater dial variation and GMT functionality. Yet the Submariner's persistent three-year waiting lists and $3,400 market premium over retail suggest Rolex's brand equity remains unmatched, regardless of objective value propositions.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Rolex 3230 |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph |
| Jewels | 31 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 41.0mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 11.4mm |
| Case Material | Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel) |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Unidirectional rotating, Cerachrom ceramic insert |
| Dial Color | Black |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 48.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 300m / 984ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp |
| Clasp | Oysterlock folding clasp with Glidelock extension |
| Weight | 150g |