Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1AR-001
About This Watch
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1AR-001 in two-tone steel and rose gold is a striking combination that adds warmth and luxury to the sporty chronograph Nautilus. The rose gold bezel, crown, pusher, and center bracelet links create a harmonious contrast against the steel case and outer bracelet links. The black gradient dial with horizontal embossing provides the classic Nautilus backdrop for the flyback chronograph displays. The caliber CH 28-520 C features a column-wheel flyback mechanism that allows the chronograph to be reset and immediately restarted. The two-tone combination has grown in popularity as collectors appreciate its ability to bridge formal and casual occasions. At 40.5mm, the chronograph Nautilus provides substantial wrist presence while maintaining the collection's elegant proportions. The rose gold elements catch the light beautifully, adding visual interest from every angle. This reference represents excellent value within the Nautilus chronograph family, offering the same mechanical sophistication as the full gold variants at a more accessible price point. It is increasingly recognized as one of the best-looking modern Nautilus configurations.
In-Depth Review
# The Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1AR-001: Patek Philippe's Masterwork in Steel and Gold
When Patek Philippe introduced the 5980/1AR-001 in 2013, it represented a watershed moment for the manufacture: the first chronograph in the modern Nautilus collection. Built on the legendary integrated case design pioneered by Gérald Genta in 1976, this 40.5mm steel and 18k rose gold hybrid delivers authentic complications rather than cosmetic flourishes. The black gradient dial is understated by necessity—every element serves a purpose. The flyback chronograph function, powered by the proprietary Caliber CH 28-520 C with 35 jewels and 55 hours of power reserve, represents genuine engineering excellence. Few watches at this price point combine such refined aesthetics with tangible mechanical sophistication.
The 5980/1AR-001 appeals to a specific collector: someone who views watches as serious instruments rather than status symbols, yet refuses to sacrifice elegance. This is the choice for executives who attend both boardrooms and sailing regattas, who appreciate that the integrated octagonal bezel still catches light like jewelry at 120 meters of water resistance. The integrated bracelet, finished in matching steel and rose gold, feels substantial without excess.
At MSRP $72,700 and current market pricing near $95,000, the 5980 competes directly with the Omega Seamaster Chronograph and Rolex Daytona. Where those watches offer broader appeal and slightly better availability, the Nautilus chronograph remains the choice for collectors who understand that Patek Philippe's real luxury lies in restraint, precision, and four decades of proven design.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Patek Philippe CH 28-520 C |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph |
| Jewels | 35 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 40.5mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 12.0mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel and 18k Rose Gold |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, integrated octagonal, 18k Rose Gold |
| Dial Color | Black gradient |
| Lug-to-Lug | 45.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 120m / 394ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless Steel and 18k Rose Gold integrated bracelet |
| Clasp | Fold-over clasp |
| Weight | 155g |
| Complications |