Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001
About This Watch
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712R-001 in rose gold with brown-black gradient dial on leather strap is a warm, sophisticated take on the complicated Nautilus. While the steel version on bracelet has been discontinued, the rose gold variant on leather strap continues in production, offering an alternative that is more dressy and less sporty. The brown-black gradient dial complements the rose gold case beautifully, creating a warm color palette that shifts from chocolate brown at the edges to near-black at the center. The horizontal embossed pattern adds the characteristic Nautilus texture. Three subsidiary displays provide the complications: moon phase at 7 o'clock, power reserve at 10 o'clock, and date at 2 o'clock. The ultra-thin caliber 240 PS IRM C LU maintains the Nautilus's signature slim profile at 8.52mm despite the additional complications. The leather strap gives this version a different personality from the bracelet models, making it more suitable for dressier occasions while retaining the sporty Nautilus DNA. Rose gold Nautilus models have historically been undervalued relative to steel, but collectors are increasingly recognizing their quality and beauty.
In-Depth Review
# The Rose Gold Standard for Serious Collectors
When Patek Philippe revived the Nautilus moonphase in 2015 with reference 5712R-001, it signaled the manufacture's commitment to elevating one of horology's most recognizable sports watches into genuine haute horlogerie territory. The rose gold execution transforms the iconic octagonal design—originally conceived in 1976—into an object of unmistakable prestige, while the integrated bezel and slender 8.5mm case profile maintain the collection's distinctive visual proportions. The caliber 240 PS IRM C LU movement represents Patek Philippe's watchmaking philosophy: 29 jewels operating at 21,600 vph deliver not merely timekeeping accuracy, but a 48-hour power reserve that demands respect from the wearer. The addition of date, moonphase, and power reserve indicators transforms this from a sports instrument into a complications-bearing timepiece worthy of its ultra-luxury positioning.
This watch addresses a specific collector mindset: those who have moved beyond entry-level luxury and demand both technical substance and investment potential. The 5712R-001 functions equally well as a dress sports watch for discerning professionals or as a cornerstone piece for serious horological collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's manufacturing rigor. The brown alligator leather strap signals refined restraint rather than ostentation.
In the stratified world above fifty thousand dollars, the 5712R-001 competes directly with pieces like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar. Where those rivals emphasize calendar complications, the Nautilus moonphase achieves balance between accessible complications and everyday wearability, a distinction that justifies its robust secondary market premium reaching $75,000.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Patek Philippe 240 PS IRM C LU |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Frequency | 21,600 vph |
| Jewels | 29 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 40.0mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 8.5mm |
| Case Material | 18k Rose Gold |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, integrated octagonal |
| Dial Color | Brown-Black gradient |
| Lug-to-Lug | 44.5mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 60m / 197ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Brown alligator leather strap |
| Clasp | Fold-over clasp in 18k rose gold |
| Weight | 95g |
| Complications |