Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738R-001
About This Watch
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738R-001 is one of the most distinctive and elegant watches in the entire Patek Philippe collection. Introduced in 1968, the Golden Ellipse's case shape is based on the golden ratio (1:1.6180), the mathematical proportion that has been associated with beauty since antiquity. The elliptical case creates a completely different aesthetic from the round Calatrava or the angular Nautilus, offering an organic, flowing silhouette that sits exceptionally flat on the wrist at just 6.68mm thick. This remarkable thinness is possible thanks to the caliber 240, a micro-rotor automatic movement that is only 2.53mm thick. The ebony black sunburst dial contrasts beautifully with the warm rose gold case, and applied gold baton markers and dauphine hands complete the refined aesthetic. At 34.5mm across its wider dimension, the Golden Ellipse is decidedly compact by modern standards, but this is entirely intentional: this is a watch meant to whisper, not shout. The Golden Ellipse appeals to true watch connoisseurs who appreciate design history, mathematical beauty, and the confidence to wear something unconventional. It is the insider's Patek Philippe.
In-Depth Review
# Golden Ellipse 5738R-001: Modernizing a Patek Philippe Icon
Patek Philippe's decision to reintroduce the Golden Ellipse collection in 2018 marked a deliberate shift in the manufacture's design philosophy. Rather than chase sports watch trends, the brand doubled down on understated elegance with the 5738R-001, a watch that prioritizes proportion and refinement over contemporary complications. The 34.5mm rose gold case, paired with an ebony black sunburst dial and leather strap, represents a studied return to the minimalist aesthetic that defined luxury watchmaking in the 1970s. The elliptical bezel—the collection's defining feature—remains distinctive without appearing ostentatious, while the in-house caliber 240 movement provides a practical 48-hour power reserve in a case just 6.7mm thick. This is jewelry-like watchmaking stripped of unnecessary ornamentation.
The 5738R-001 appeals to a specific collector: one who views a wristwatch as a timeless accessory rather than a status symbol. This watch suits the executive boardroom as readily as the understated collector's vault, demanding no explanation and requiring no modification. It speaks to professionals who have moved beyond proving themselves through horological spectacle.
In the ultra-luxury dress watch segment, the 5738R-001 occupies rarified ground at roughly $32,000. Direct competitors include the Cartier Ballon Bleu 33mm and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin, both excellent alternatives. Yet the Patek Philippe's distinctive proportions and proven heritage give it a unique standing—it remains the choice for those who recognize that true luxury lies in restraint.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Patek Philippe 240 |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Frequency | 21,600 vph |
| Jewels | 27 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 34.5mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 6.7mm |
| Case Material | 18k Rose Gold |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, smooth elliptical |
| Dial Color | Ebony Black Sunburst |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 39.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 30m / 98ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Black alligator leather strap |
| Clasp | Pin buckle in 18k rose gold |
| Weight | 45g |