Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400
About This Watch
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400 is the most technically advanced and aesthetically daring watch in the Big Crown collection, combining the flagship Calibre 400 in-house movement with a skeletonized dial and lightweight titanium construction. The "X" designation signals a departure from the classical ProPilot formula — where the standard model prioritizes legibility through simplicity, the ProPilot X celebrates mechanical artistry through openworked dial architecture that reveals the Calibre 400's bridges, mainspring barrel, and oscillating weight. The titanium case at 39mm creates a watch that feels almost weightless on the wrist at just 95 grams, making it one of the most comfortable pilot watches in production. The Calibre 400's 120-hour power reserve means five full days of autonomy, and the 10-year warranty provides extraordinary long-term security for what is a relatively accessible in-house movement. The skeletonized dial is executed with impressive depth and detail — the various movement components are finished at different levels, creating a three-dimensional landscape that rewards extended observation. Applied luminous hour markers at the key positions maintain respectable legibility despite the open-worked nature of the dial, a thoughtful concession to the ProPilot's instrument-watch heritage. The titanium bracelet features a micro-adjust extension system for on-the-fly sizing, and the overall fit and finish rival titanium watches from brands at significantly higher price points. At $3,800, the ProPilot X represents serious watchmaking — in-house movement, titanium construction, skeletonized dial — at a price that most luxury brands would charge for a basic three-hand steel watch.
In-Depth Review
# Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400
In 2021, Oris made a decisive statement about the future of mid-range pilot watches by introducing the Calibre 400, an in-house movement designed specifically for extended wear and minimal service intervals. The Big Crown ProPilot X harnesses this 120-hour power reserve in a remarkably refined package: a 39mm titanium case with an open-worked dial that reveals the mechanical mastery beneath. At just 11.5mm thick, the watch maintains the legible proportions essential to tool watches while shedding unnecessary bulk. The skeleton dial, rendered in grey, avoids the gimmickry often associated with open caseback designs; instead, it balances aesthetic sophistication with genuine functional transparency. For a timepiece positioned at approximately $3,200 street price, the engineering density here is genuinely impressive—28,800 vph frequency, 30 jewels, and Swiss manufacture combine to establish credibility that transcends its price point.
This watch targets a specific buyer: the working pilot or serious aviation enthusiast who values substance over status symbols, and who appreciates that a five-day power reserve means actual freedom from daily winding. The titanium construction appeals to those prioritizing durability and weight reduction over the prestige associated with precious metals. The 100-meter water resistance and tool-watch heritage make it equally suitable for professionals who need reliable timekeeping beyond the cockpit.
In direct competition, the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer and Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special occupy adjacent territory, though the Oris distinguishes itself through proprietary movement technology and superior power reserve. The Calibre 400 represents calculated Swiss engineering at a moment when pilot watches risk commoditization.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Oris Calibre 400 |
| Power Reserve | 120 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph |
| Jewels | 30 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 39.0mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 11.5mm |
| Case Material | Titanium |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, brushed titanium |
| Dial Color | Skeleton/Grey |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 46.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 100m / 328ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Titanium bracelet |
| Clasp | Folding clasp with extension |
| Weight | 95g |
| Complications |