Cartier Cle de Cartier 40mm
About This Watch
The Cartier Cle de Cartier 40mm is the men's size in the collection, offering full wrist presence while showcasing the innovative crown mechanism at a larger scale. The "key" crown becomes more prominent and satisfying to operate at this size — the tactile experience of turning the crown to wind or set the watch is genuinely different from any other timepiece. The 40mm case with its convex sides and subtly flared lugs creates an organic, flowing shape that sits comfortably on the wrist. The case profile is clean and modern, with the crown housing providing an interesting visual counterpoint to the symmetrical round case. The silvered flinque dial provides visual richness through its textured surface, which catches light differently at every angle. Roman numeral hour markers and blued steel sword hands keep the dial firmly within Cartier's established design language. The in-house caliber 1847 MC delivers 42 hours of power reserve through automatic winding. The date aperture at six o'clock is cleanly integrated into the dial layout. The dark brown alligator strap pairs elegantly with the steel case, while a folding buckle ensures secure wear. The Cle de Cartier 40mm may be the most underappreciated watch in Cartier's current lineup — it lacks the historical significance of the Santos or Tank, but its design innovation, wearing comfort, and distinctive character make it a compelling choice for those who value originality over convention.
In-Depth Review
# The Cartier Cle de Cartier 40mm: Understated Luxury in Steel
When Cartier introduced the Cle de Cartier in 2015, the manufacture deliberately rejected the contemporary obsession with oversized sports watches and technical complications. Instead, this collection returns to first principles: elegant proportion, refined execution, and the kind of restraint that separates genuine luxury from marketing noise. The 40mm stainless steel case hits a sweet spot between presence and wearability, while the signature winding crown—styled as a key, hence "Cle"—serves as both functional element and visual anchor. The in-house Cartier 1847 MC caliber delivers respectable credentials: 42 hours of power reserve, 25 jewels, and the finishing quality you'd expect from a Swiss manufacture-grade movement. The silver flinque dial paired with dark brown alligator leather creates an understated aesthetic that transcends trends, while the slim 11mm profile ensures this watch doesn't compete for wrist real estate with everyday attire.
The Cle appeals to collectors who view watches as personal artifacts rather than conversation pieces. This is the choice for executives, professionals, and seasoned enthusiasts who've moved beyond the need to justify their acquisitions through specification sheets. It suits those seeking a refined daily wearer with legitimate pedigree—something equally at home in a boardroom or under a dress shirt cuff.
In the $5,000-$7,000 range, the Cle faces worthy competition from Omega's Seamaster Aqua Terra and Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Control models. Yet where those watches lean toward sportiness or complexity, Cartier's offering prioritizes pure simplicity and design harmony. At current market prices around $5,200—substantially below MSRP—
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Cartier 1847 MC |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph |
| Jewels | 25 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 40.0mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 11.0mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, polished round |
| Dial Color | Silver flinque |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 47.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 30m / 98ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Dark brown alligator leather strap |
| Clasp | Steel folding buckle |
| Weight | 88g |
| Complications |