Cartier Cle de Cartier 35mm
About This Watch
The Cartier Cle de Cartier 35mm, launched in 2015, introduced a completely new case shape to Cartier's lexicon — and a revolutionary crown mechanism that gives the collection its name. "Cle" means "key" in French, and the crown is designed to be wound and set with an intuitive turning motion, like turning a key in a lock. The crown itself protrudes slightly from the case in a distinctive angular housing, creating a unique silhouette that is immediately identifiable. The 35mm size serves as an elegant women's or unisex option, with the round case featuring convex sides that give it a three-dimensional, pebble-like quality similar to the Ballon Bleu but with sharper, more defined edges. The silvered flinque dial adds texture through its guilloche-like pattern, while maintaining the expected Cartier elements: Roman numerals, railroad minute track, and blued sword hands. The in-house caliber 1847 MC provides reliable automatic winding with 42 hours of power reserve, confirming the Cle's credentials as a serious timepiece rather than a design exercise. The date window at six o'clock adds daily functionality. The Cle de Cartier represents Cartier's willingness to innovate within its design tradition — the crown mechanism alone makes it worth experiencing. For those seeking a Cartier round watch that stands apart from the Ballon Bleu, the Cle offers a more architectural, contemporary alternative.
In-Depth Review
Cartier's approach to watchmaking has always differed from the sport-obsessed narratives that dominate horology. The Cle de Cartier 35mm exemplifies this philosophy with a design that prioritizes elegance and proportion over technical excess. Introduced in 2015, the collection takes its name from Cartier's iconic key motif, reimagined here as a crown guard that doubles as a functional winding tool. The 35mm case strikes a deliberate middle ground, larger than vintage dress watches yet restrained compared to contemporary norms. The in-house Caliber 1847 MC—a 25-jewel automatic movement with a respectable 42-hour power reserve—proves competent without pretension. The silver flinqué dial, a traditional guilloche finish performed by hand, rewards close inspection with subtle depth that photographs rarely capture. At just 10.6mm thick, the watch maintains the slim profile that defines refined dressing.
This is fundamentally a watch for the minimalist collector who views timepieces as functional jewelry rather than mechanical showcases. The black alligator strap and fixed bezel appeal to those dressing for boardrooms and social occasions rather than dive expeditions. It suits professionals seeking something more distinctive than an Omega De Ville but less iconoclastic than contemporary independent brands.
In the $4,800 street market, the Cle competes directly with established peers. An Oris Artelier Date offers similar proportions and value at lower cost, while a Longines DolceVita provides comparable dress-watch competence with stronger vintage heritage. The Cartier's advantage lies in design cohesion and brand prestige—it feels complete by design rather than specification.
Specifications
Movement
| Movement Type | Automatic |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Cartier 1847 MC |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph |
| Jewels | 25 |
Case
| Case Diameter | 35.0mm |
|---|---|
| Case Thickness | 10.6mm |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Fixed, polished round |
| Dial Color | Silver flinque |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 42.0mm |
Features
| Water Resistance | 30m / 98ft |
|---|---|
| Bracelet/Strap | Black alligator leather strap |
| Clasp | Steel folding buckle |
| Weight | 68g |
| Complications |